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**Sini Tuulia** @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe · 30 déc. 2024

30 déc. 2024

Sini Tuulia @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe

Continuing the pattern drafting for what may become the #CinnamonLinenJacket - I realised I didn't actually need the darts in the front and side pattern piece. I recalled seeing a drafting diagram for a short bolero type jacket at some point with NO body seams at all, and I don't want to go that far... But it did exist! Look at it!

A drafting diagram for a jacket, on a scan of a yellowed old drafting manual. It's all just one piece. On the left side is the centre back line, in the middle is the arm's eye, flanked by the two sides of shoulder, and on the right the centre front with an immense collar lapel jutting out of it. The bottom edge is scalloped in an intriguing fashion. All the darts and seams have been subsumed into the one bodice piece and it looks both absolutely bonkers and like it makes perfect sense.

#Sewing #PatternDrafting #HistoryBounding

**Sini Tuulia** @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe · 24 nov. 2024

24 nov. 2024

Sini Tuulia @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe

Ladies, gentlemen and persons with gender beyond the ken of cis minds: I am firmly back on my bullshit, browsing Victorian sewing manuals.
Sure, I already found what I wanted, but I also have a dozen other tabs open!

A scan of a fold of an old, yellowed book. On its pages there is first a kind of gloomy and shitty illustration of two ladies engaged in some bicycling, one on a bike and the other just looking dapper. They are wearing a pair of very full trousers and a full but only calf length skirt. Their sleeves are ridiculously large. The page declares the instructions for ladies' bicycle trousers and skirt, and provides a pretty vague set of instructions how to draft them, as well as an illustrated diagram of the same. There is not nearly enough detail to glean much off it unless you've been reading these before, or are used to pattern drafting by eye.

#HistoricalFashion #PatternDrafting #OldBooks

**Alecto** @Alecto@sunny.garden · 31 août 2024

31 août 2024

Alecto @Alecto@sunny.garden

Finished another skirt and a long coat from Hanfu Pattern Making - definitely went wrong on the sleeves and execution isn't as good as I would like, but it's comfy and goes swish so it works

A long lilac robe and a lilac wraparound skirt on a white dress form with framed embroidery hanging in the background

#sewing #patterndrafting #hanfupatternmaking

Suite du fil

**Sini Tuulia** @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe · 17 oct. 2023

17 oct. 2023

Sini Tuulia @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe

#PatternDrafting

If you know two points or measurements but not the third and are using a sharp pencil or pen, you can pretty much just draw whatever in, measure it off the paper and jot it down, and now you know what measurements to use when drafting the actual one-to-one scale pattern, or simply measure it off to the actual fabric and cut. The 1cm to 1mm equivalency is really easy to remember and it's just a neat way to not have to mess with a large amount of pattern paper if you're only just trying to figure things out in general. If you have a scale drawing of your basic block, you can just design patterns without using up almost any patterning paper.

**Sini Tuulia** @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe · 17 oct. 2023

17 oct. 2023

Sini Tuulia @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe

Another little #Sewing project!

First image is my entire pattern. We got taught this 1:10 scale method of #PatternDrafting in dressmaking school. 1mm on paper corresponds to 1cm in actual size. It's an extremely easy and quick way to make rough drafts and even geometric calculations: if you know one measurement but not the other, and use very fine pencil or pen, you can simply measure it off the paper. (More below, if you're curious)

A photo of a single small page of ruled line notebook paper on a desk, with a pink mechanical pencil on top of it. There are a number of rectangles and triangles drawn on the paper. The rectangle within which all the other ones are drawn is marked as 144cm wide and 105cm tall. From this we can deduce that the pattern drawing is actually 144mm by 105mm. There are rough lines for the neck hole, with the depth at front and back denoted. Every single centimetre except the eventual cutouts for the neck opening of the fabric has been used.

**Sini Tuulia** @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe · 22 avr. 2023

22 avr. 2023

Sini Tuulia @sinituulia@eldritch.cafe

I've been slowly pattern drafting for a vague amount of hours and have produced a Victorian vest pattern based on my exact measurements that consists of only three pattern pieces (and one facing, so technically four) but those three pieces have been *engineered to heck and back*

I've been in a patterning mood because I'm procrastinating sewing the jacket lining, and thus will need to make a mock-up for both a trousers and a vest at some point in the future. Sometimes it's nice to maths and geometry and eyeballing style lines!

#PatternDrafting #sewing

**Atiya** @Rocket_Tia@universeodon.com · 20 mars 2023

20 mars 2023

Atiya @Rocket_Tia@universeodon.com

I'm watching this very good video on dart manipulation, and I'm like, I think I can do that. Then I realized that I pick busy ass fabrics because, I in fact can't do that, and the prints hide my mistakes.

At least the prints are pretty. This one just has regular darts, but if there's anything wrong with the dress, you'll never see it.

#sewing #dressmaking #patternDrafting